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VapePanther

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Reply with quote  #31 
Quote:
Originally Posted by giz_60
Being that you are using a 3 core clapton, thats alot of metal to heat up...you might want to change the settings in your profile...

Power - 167
Preheat - 167
Punch - 11
Time Limit - 3 secs.

This will get the coil up to temp quick & then the board will do its job & throttle back the wattage to maintain temp. In the Mod tab, at the top, there is a 'Kanthal Power Limit'..if you set this to a wattage you are comfy with, if it drops into Power mode, it won't cook yer lips...[biggrin]


That works well.  Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.
giz_60

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Reply with quote  #32 
[thumb][thumb]
Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #33 
@VapePanther do ya mind 1 last DM print screen for sh17s and giggles  [smile]

If you're getting nic'd out ... rest mod beside you ... bottom right hand corner .... puff for 4 second. 


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VapePanther

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Reply with quote  #34 
Sure good2.png 
good.png

Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #35 
Alrighty then, so it looks like your coil needs somewhere around what your 'power' line shows (inverted green 'v') to maintain that temp. If that's sort of YOUR typical coil build, you can lower those maximums to more reasonable values. If you don't want as quick a ramp up, lower your punch slowly till you find your sweet spot. [thumb]

Once you set your 'thermal' calibration, it gets even more consistent

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VapePanther

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Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayneo
Alrighty then, so it looks like your coil needs somewhere around what your 'power' line shows (inverted green 'v') to maintain that temp. If that's sort of YOUR typical coil build, you can lower those maximums to more reasonable values. If you don't want as quick a ramp up, lower your punch slowly till you find your sweet spot. [thumb]  


Thanks for the tip.[smile]
ChunkyButt200

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Reply with quote  #37 
just a side note, if your SET wattage is equal to or exceeds your preheat power setting, all of your preheat settings (power, time, punch) become ineffective. 
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Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #38 
Thanks man, I knew I forgot to mention that  [smile]
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giz_60

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Reply with quote  #39 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChunkyButt200
just a side note, if your SET wattage is equal to or exceeds your preheat power setting, all of your preheat settings (power, time, punch) become ineffective. 


That's probably true with 316L, but I have found that with Nifethal 70, which I use exclusively & which has a much lower resistivity than SS, if I lower the SET power below the preheat power, it takes slightly longer to reach temp. On the these screenshots, the preheat in all puffs is set at 75...but I could be missing something & it wouldn't be the first time...[biggrin]   The last screenshot is changing the preheat power settings...

                                                 CHANGING POWER (WATT) SETTING

111.PNG 
SS 316L.PNG 

NIfethatl 70.PNG 
                                             CHANGING PREHEAT POWER SETTING

Preheat Settings Change.PNG 

Asmodeus

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Reply with quote  #40 
Could possibly be unrelated. But I have a Coilart Mage RDTA and it screws apart so you can fill the little bottom section. It essentially has 2 510 pins that meet in the center because you can use it as a normal RDA by screwing off the tank and installing a plate. Man do I seriously have to crank that thing down or it has issues with the DNA. I have to loosen it from the 510 on the mod and then hold the bottom and top and crank against the airflow stops with both hands to really snug it up. I'm using 316L claptons in it from advanced vape supply. Everything inside that atty is gold plated. The entire deck and clamps etc. It should be ideal for TC theoretically. I isolated it to the center pin halves after a lot of troubleshooting. RDTA's made a bit of a resurgence lately, so if yours screws apart, and you're using a wire like 316L. Everything has to be really right. The DNA is so accurate it's "picky".
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