Evolv DNA Forum
Sign up Calendar Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment   Page 2 of 3      Prev   1   2   3   Next
CADmanSolid

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 1
Reply with quote  #16 
Hi, im new on this forum but have played with 316l a fair bit on my vt200 hcigar, and my lavaboxes and have a very good system system going for this material.
This dna200 chip is a great piece of kit because you can trick it well depending on what alloys are in your wire. I use UD builders choice 316l with the wire wizard steam-engine.org curve for ss 316l elite.
I used a temp probe inside cotton through my coils to tune my method and found this to be spot on accurate temp give or take 5 or so degreesF.

i have found that any lower than 0.2 on ss316l is just to unstable to work with so i like to stick around the 0.2 0hms mark on 26awg for tanks and can go 24awg on drippers of ya like but it will be less stable.

This is my build and settings:

Dual contact coils 26awg @ 8 wraps on a 2.5mm post coming out @ 0.257 in a (Cloud chasers ink triforce rta deck that has a modded center pin right through from post to +510 bed for perfect conductivity) not important, you just need a good connection from coil to DNA chip (good atty).

My mod resistance is set to 0.007 (This is important).

Then I lock my ohms to 0.26 even though it is actually 0.257 (These small changes make a world of difference to your vape).

I set my pre heat to 1w, 0 punch, 0 seconds (This is important).

My over all wattage is set to 130w (this is important not to starve the power from the coils) but the DNA only sucks about 100-127w on a huge tooooot @ 535DegreesF and about  80w on a normal toot @ 480.

I have this build in a sapor, verlocity, CLT V2 and a stro v2 and i can vape the wicks to totally dry with no burn at 420-480 degreesF and nearly totally dry at 500 degrees. A true constant 500 DegreesF at that wattage is a real hot vape and will make your atty to hot to touch after about 3-4 good toots and will boil your mouth like Gplat Claptons on a stacked 26650 mech, but with only a good chip and a pee size set of coils..... well maybe my mind is a little spun but it is still a real mean vape, defo better than any kanthal build in normal vw mode or on a mech.

Just my 2000000000000000cents worth > <
                                                       O
                                                     0
                                                   0


















mlambert09

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 1
Reply with quote  #17 
Word to the wise ...... READ CADmanSolid's post/answer. You'll throw that ni200 back in you box or trash which ever you prefer.
Powerman

Member
Registered:
Posts: 39
Reply with quote  #18 
Most folks are finding you can't use contact coils in TC. Yes that's known for nickle, but it seems to be the case with SS as well. Sure contacts can "work", but erratic and inconsistent performance. Makes sense to me. I have not had time to do some spaced to check performance.

Seems with SS there has been a rash of problems. People seem to look at tank and mod and wicking and so forth. But it's common problems. Burnt hits with no obvious wick problem, or way too cool vape. Where as most resort to higher TCR or fake out ohm. Locking ohms is another one. Many people report rock steady reading on spaced coils. That's what I'll be doing next.

I've also heard no preheat or higher ohm builds. But I'm suspecting those are bandaids to the real culprit.
teilo

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 6
Reply with quote  #19 
I can confirm that SS requires spaced coils. Anything else is a disaster. 304 might be more tolerant given its higher TC gradiant, but with 316L it is a non-starter. I even set a wick on fire while trying to use compressed coils. I was about to give up on SS entirely when I tried a spaced coil. This made all the difference in the world.

YMMV, but preheat also seems to cause issues, so CADmanSolid's advice is good.

Locking the Ohms also helps a lot. But a word to the wise here: If you are doing a dual-coil build, and one coil comes loose, your base resistance will double, and you will burn your wick. So check your connections. Thankfully, compared to nickel, SS can take a lot more torque without breaking.
MikeTheVapeDude

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 156
Reply with quote  #20 
I've used the Aspire Triton .3 316L SS coils in a Supertank Mini for a few days with the CVC off Steam Engine and it's worked great, though when I tried to use actual 317L wire I could NOT get it to work until I spaced the coils out (a lot, like OCD spaced perfectly, it was more trouble than it was worth imo) but when it finally did work it worked good. SS seems to be my personal favorite TC wire at this point, but I can feel the stress of trying to get 317L wire to function properly. But it CAN be done.
__________________
I can't be bothered to get creative enough for one of these, so this is what you get for my signature.
watcher64

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #21 
To be honest I don't see how SS wire works at all for TC, just my opinion, but I think you guys are fooling yourselves.  The science just does not support SS being any good for TC.

NI 200 has a base resistance at minimum temp of .62 and at max of 3.52 that gives you 2.9 to play with to calculate the temp.
TI has a base resistance at minimum temp of .61 and at max of 2.45 giving you 1.84 in between to calculate.

SS on average has only 0.45 ohms of difference between min and max, that is a very slight amount to be able to calculate and maintain any accurate temps.

You can see this in device monitor as constant spikes above and below.

Just my .02
MikeTheVapeDude

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 156
Reply with quote  #22 
I can tell the difference between regular wattage on stainless steel wire and TC curves on it. Besides, trying to vape with SS wire on a DNA200 tends to be a bit annoying as all of my DNA200 devices confuse themselves and start in TC mode then eventually swap to regular wattage. The coefficient of SS wire is high, yes, but TC is still definitely an option. It's not like you're using regular curves, it's a whole different material setting on the CSV, so that higher coefficient is accounted for in the different curve setup, and the much smaller changes in resistance can be accounted for by the device.

I mean, the experience will obviously differ, because the coefficients of the SS wire changes between type (304, 316L, 316, 317L, etc.) also, some different kinds of SS will work better. There's actually some types of SS wire with ideal coefficient ratings to use with TC, they're just not actively being used that I know of, it's kind of a all in theory thing. But I do know that with custom material settings on a new curve, the DNA200 can use SS wire with temperature control fairly well, maybe not as good as Nickel or Titanium, yet, but it's definitely a viable option. The future holds promise, though.

__________________
I can't be bothered to get creative enough for one of these, so this is what you get for my signature.
watcher64

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #23 

Don't get me wrong , I am sure there is a difference ..

BUT, the DNA200 is not a magical device that can break the laws of physics ..

 

You have a chip that has to look at the temp setting, look at the current ohms, calculate the temp, then reset the voltage/wattage to achieve the required setting.

Now taking into account, the switching on and off of the power, the adjustment of the power and the fact that there is going to be heat loss/gain in that moment, unless they have magically managed to throw a super fast cpu, super fast transistors, switches, and voltage regulators on the board (which I know is not the case), the chances of getting super accurate temps is just not going to happen.

 

And yes there are different types of SS, but they all fall around the same variances, some a little higher and some a little lower, but, with this type of TC the variance in ohms is what determines how accurate it is.  The smaller the variance the less accurate it can physically be.

 

Again just my 0.02 and my personal opinion.

VapingBad

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 2,449
Reply with quote  #24 
Personally I would not bother with SS, but never had a problem that I can solve with Ni200.  SS can work, obviously not as well as Ni or even Ti, but you need to have the mod res set correctly, an atty with good connections ant the right materials profile.
[TS_wire_comp] 

__________________
• I am not employed by nor do I represent Evolv Inc.  All opinions are my own, they are just opinion not fact and can be wrong •

Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200/250DNA 75
Common problems
watcher64

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #25 

Quote:
Originally Posted by VapingBad
Personally I would not bother with SS, but never had a problem that I can solve with Ni200.  SS can work, obviously not as well as Ni or even Ti, but you need to have the mod res set correctly, an atty with good connections ant the right materials profile.
[TS_wire_comp] 

 

That is exactly my point ... Thanks for posting that chart ..

MikeTheVapeDude

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 156
Reply with quote  #26 
I never claimed the DNA200 was magical or that SS beat all other forms of TC. Though I do like it. Honestly I like Titanium the best so far, it's a fun wire for TC, given that I can build crazier coils without having to worry about uberlow resistance.
__________________
I can't be bothered to get creative enough for one of these, so this is what you get for my signature.
watcher64

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #27 
MikeTheVapeDude ... My comments were not directed at you, just a general statement, based on various discussions from this board.  I hope you did not think they were directed at you ...  We all Vape Fam ...
MikeTheVapeDude

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 156
Reply with quote  #28 
So I just tried some 430 SS and I must say it vaped fantastic compared to 316-316L-317L wires.
__________________
I can't be bothered to get creative enough for one of these, so this is what you get for my signature.
halvhazard

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 1
Reply with quote  #29 
Just did my first SS build following CADmansolid's directions. worked wonderfully! thanks.

I am using a Lavabox using SS316L. my build came out lower than the directions, about 0.18 but works great.
blackcrx

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 3
Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VapingBad
Personally I would not bother with SS, but never had a problem that I can solve with Ni200.  SS can work, obviously not as well as Ni or even Ti, but you need to have the mod res set correctly, an atty with good connections ant the right materials profile.
[TS_wire_comp] 


I do not agree with this chart. You are basing your calculations on resistance instead of wire length.

In order to build a 1ohm coil in Ni200 you would need 56 wraps around a 2.5mm ID.

If you used the same amount of wraps or wire length, it actually shows that SS316L is more accurate.

To keep things consistent, I will also use steam engine for calculations.

Example using 28 gauge in both materials

8 wraps of SS316L on a 2.5mm ID is 0.78ohm at 20c, at 200c the resistance will be 0.8372ohm, a change of 0.0572ohm

8 wraps of Ni200 on a 2.5mm ID is 0.10ohm at 20c, at 200c the resistance will be 0.131032ohm, a change of 0.031032ohm

Also using the formula that was over on ECF for calculating the change in resistance based on TCR and cold ohms. For every 0.01ohm change on a 0.78ohm SS316L coil it will result in 14.25c. For every 0.01ohm change on a 0.10ohm Ni200 coil it will result in 16.67c. 

I was all about the Ni200 wire until I did these calculations which converted me straight to SS316L. Higher over all resistance (less amp draw), greater accuracy, and most importantly it was not flimsy and soft like the Ni200 wire

Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.