Registered: 1465771914 Posts: 2
Reply with quote #16
Originally Posted by
JaySoCal Stay away from fat daddy vapes 510. I know very bold and forward but let me explain. Been through 3 dna boards. The first one never came on so doubt it is related to this issue. The next 2 maybe. The ceramic insulator has no retention groove and will eventually move in the 510.
The 2nd board worked great for a few weeks then restiance would fluctuate. Thought it was the clone rda so bought a authentic twisted mess rda. It was better but still some. Then it fried sent it in for warranty.
3rd board same thing but this time I got warranty service.
Now on the 4th board was vaping on it a few weeks ago started do the same thing but was taking a vape and the check atomizer was displayed. So grabbed the atty and it was loose huh? Vaped it a little while longer was acting weird then check atomizer agian. But this time it is tight. Huh? Tale the back off the + wire is unsoldered form the 510. Huh?.
I re-solder it to the 510 but still getting check atomizer weird right. So decide to push on the 510 with a screw driver it moved. Un soldered it and took the 510 out of the mod and the ceramic was cracked and allowed the positive pin to be close to the outside. Not a full short but close to it may of been intermittently allowing a short.
Put a varitube v2 510 mod runs totally diffrent ohms don't jump feels way smoother.
Registered: 1465771914 Posts: 2
Reply with quote #17
Sounds like to me your iron is to hot and your applying to much heat and Soldering it one two many ideas
Registered: 1447725359 Posts: 861
Reply with quote #18
Like i said three months ago, i had problems with the, i think the v3's, not enough pin travel and would push the brass cap end off, not brazed on just push fit, absolute f**ing rubbish, his drip tipps look cool but are rubbish on the inners if your using a dripper..
i also use vatitube and a generic 510, wich is a coppie of the veritube and they knock the fdv products into a cocked hat, if your going to pay for a name stick with evolv,
Registered: 1435487482 Posts: 140
Reply with quote #19
I appreciate the mention of the potential issues with some 510 connectors!
I purchased one recently and was very hesitant so I stretched my google legs and found this thread. The press fit/swedge cut brass used to solder to was just spinning and would have really played havoc in consideration of ohms resistance, besides for atomizers 24mm and larger the o-ring seated in the deck wouldn't have sealed. It was about .015" or .020" I removed from the outer lip so larger atomizers would contact the seated o-ring in the deck. To stabilize any resistance fluctuations I press fit a piece of copper tightly onto the center pin. We'll see how this all works out eventually. Edit: Oh, I barbed and tappered the end of the center pin too.
Hiya Dennis, I don't mean to offend you with this, please consider it creative criticism. I bought one of your V4 Ultimate Edition 22/24 mm 510s with the o-ring seated in the deck and noticed some potential issues so I've fixed them. If utilizing a 24mm atomizer the o-ring wouldn't have contacted the bottom of the atomizer potentially pooling liquid in the catch well, this was an easy fix. I turned off about .015" to .020" of the outer rim on the lathe, no biggy. The other thing I noticed is that the brass sleeve for conductor soldering was spinning fairly freely. In my opinion this looked like a less than proper electrical connection so again I fixed it. I milled a piece of copper to press fit very tightly over the end of the center pin. A minor change I made was to barb and tapper the end of the center pin as well. Just a friendly heads up as after noticing these things I searched the net and your reputation has been faltering, whether by way of manufacturers or design in todays world this can't be much good. __________________
Founder of Magic Valley Vapors