Evolv DNA Forum
Sign up Calendar Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment   Page 2 of 3      Prev   1   2   3   Next
Asmodeus

Member
Registered:
Posts: 44
Reply with quote  #16 
Quite honestly this is pretty severe.  These are HB6's and they have been through MAYBE 2 charge cycles.  They are brand new.  This is just what I have in there this second, and while I normally watch the pack voltage out of the corner of my eye now every so often.  I have logged this before without as much deviation between cells, OR as much sag, period.  As we both can see it is not long before I hit the low V cut off on a pull.  Perhaps my bottom right + lead under the battery tray is not ideal. 


LG HB6.png

ChunkyButt200

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 1,516
Reply with quote  #17 
brand new authentic HB6's, although small in capacity, should handle anything the DNA 250 asks from them. i'm tellin ya, it's all about connection and the ability to flow that current from the cells to board. start from the cells and work back to the board (with a set plan, you're less likely to miss something). contacts pushing hard and flush against the ends of the cells. you want firm pressing contacts with a large surface area to mate with the cell. good quality sleds can be hard to find. correct battery wire awg. wires (including tap wire) soldered solidly to contacts. solid main + and - batt wire to board pads soldering....tap too.

other than that, i'm outta ideas.

__________________
1.21 JIGAWATTS............GREAT SCOTT!........WHAT THE HELL IS A JIGAWATT?
• I am not employed by nor do I represent Evolv Inc.  All opinions are my own, they are just opinion not fact and can be wrong •
Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200 • DNA 75  Common problems
EVOLV HELP DESK - https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/?a=add
LOST VAPE WARRANTY REPAIR - http://www.lostvaperepaircenter.com
dwcraig1

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 1,248
Reply with quote  #18 
Re: Asmodeus
I would start with the negative as it looks easier.
Use volt meter, get one probe on the packs neg. battery and the other probe on the 510 housing and fire taking note of voltage....then when problem is noted go from pack neg. to sled neg. contact, fire, note voltage...ect 
Work your way through the path.
Pay close attention to those battery contacts on the sled.

__________________
I am not connected with and do not represent Evolv Inc. All opinions are my own. They are just opinions and may not be correct.
Asmodeus

Member
Registered:
Posts: 44
Reply with quote  #19 
It may be easier to buy a new battery and board sled and chisel this stuff out of the epoxy.  They are not that expensive.  If I can get it all broken down I may be able to just soak the case in thinner and get the remainder (of the epoxy) off.  

The real question at that point though is... do I install the LiPo I bought just in case.  Or continue with the 18650's and sled.  I have so much $ in (18650) batteries at this point I don't want to give up.  But I know if I just pop the LiPo in I'm done and it's good. 

*sigh*
JTree

Member
Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #20 
I just got done with my first p+ build with a 250 chip. I used the same sled and mount as you did. I'm getting really good at soldering these things up.....I've fought battery connection issues since it was done. I'm sure you have noticed that the positive connection tab in the upper right isn't exactly ideal on that sled, and that'she what I'm blaming my issues on. The more I think about it, the less I want to continue with 18650 batteries in this enclosure. Which lipo did you buy to fit this enclosure.....heck....if you aren'the going to use yours, do you want to sell it? Hmmm......or maybe I find a nice 2 cell lipo so I don't have to jack around as much with the wiring at the board. Maybe I can even get away with not chiseling the board mount out. Choices choices.

FWIW, I'm not looking forward to chiseling the stuff out of mine either, but I'm done fighting this nonesense. Life's too short and I don't have time for things that don't work like they are intended to.

TBH, if this build plan hadn't been rushed and I had looked at the spec sheet for the 250 before building this thing, I totally would have used lipo to begin with. The 1 amp charging of the 200 made lipo unusable (imo) but 2 amps?.....awesome.
JTree

Member
Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #21 
I see you even swapped the contacts around where the negative is in the upper right to try to get around the issue I am having.....this just solidifies my conviction of going good lipo.

Aaaaaaaaand I'm off to hobbyking to look at batteries.
Asmodeus

Member
Registered:
Posts: 44
Reply with quote  #22 
Quite honestly internal charging is the least of my concerns.  The only time I use the charging port is when it's plugged into DM to try to figure out what is wrong with it this time... 

I definitely flipped the position of the contacts so I would have more space at the 510, and it's still not enough.  I have an atty or two that protrude enough that the throw on the insulator scrapes the tape on the output (510) wire and nearly touches the battery.  I could have probably done a better job soldering that joint so it isn't so bulked up on the + 510.  But to stick it I tinned the 510 first and I wanted the wire to attach vertically so it didn't twist and snag on things.  Despite it's appearance, I don't believe it's the issue.  

What appears to be the issue is I have a bad connection in the battery tray from one of the cells.  And I'm almost certain it's in the spot I have to break the sled out to get to.  The bottom of my sled where 4 wires go to the board and are crammed in between the case and sled took a good bit of force to get into the case and even getting the wires to lay in the groove in the sled was a chore.  If I screwed up somewhere.  That's the most likely "where".  

I purchased a 900mah 3s lipo, I think it's a lousy efest unit.  BUT.  If you look in the show me thread there's a guy who crammed a 45c lipo in the P+ enclosure.  

https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1294984448&postcount=77&forum=454109

That looks like the biggest thing you could possibly cram in there and still use connectors.  


Did you bend your positive connectors from that tray?  I reshaped them so they were round where the batteries make contact.  Otherwise they would rip the wraps off the batteries.  Mine are pretty tight and I made a battery pull so I didn't have to snatch at them either.  You can clearly see that my right cell doesn't sit centered though.  Part of that has to do with the sled being nearly broken out of the box.  And the other is the torque from the wires against the case allowed it to drift slightly when the epoxy was setting up.  

I hit the batteries with a probe, then the connectors with a probe to see that what the battery cells were putting out was making it to the connectors, so in my case, the connections TO the cells are good enough.  It has to be in my wires leading out.  Which, I can't really get to while fumbling around with the mod, and trying to fire it and not short something.  I'll try again when I don't have a bunch of other stuff going on at home distracting me to try to isolate it a little more.  

I need to re-read dwcraig's post 10 more times to figure out exactly where he wants me to probe it to figure out which cell.  I obviously switched batteries and their positions and it's not "a bad cell" sagging.  I have a LOT of 18650 batteries.  Most of them are < a month old.  So... 



JTree

Member
Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #23 
I ended up modifying the taps quite a bit. On the back side I trimmed them to provide more clearance from the case and on the positive side I put a dab of solder to help get a good connection. I'll check out the show me thread for that battery. Lol I hate going to that thread because every time I go there I end up with the modding fever, planning a new build before I even get done with the one I'may doing. It really doesn'the help that I have extra components just laying around ready to be used.

I've totes already started planning my next build. Think my next one will be in a g+ with a 1300 lipo I have left over from a previous build. I'll use external components for all the switches and seal the round usb hole with a silicone flanged thread protector. It'll be basically waterproof if I RTV the lid.
Wayneo

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 296
Reply with quote  #24 
Here's a quality 'smaller' sled 2@18650 that many modders rave about. http://bit.ly/2nitzk5 $4.25. He's even got 20700 sleds (If you didn't have all those 18650's)
__________________
My old tired eyes don't look at skewed, moire filled cell phone photos. Printscreen - Sniping tool or [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V]
Asmodeus

Member
Registered:
Posts: 44
Reply with quote  #25 
The one for the P+ actually has the shape of the enclosure kinda built into it. It fits in it's ordained spot perfectly. It's 3D printed so it's less durable than an injection molded one you linked. Like soldering on tabs already in place causes them to melt it almost instantly. Which I definitely did slightly.

But the one they sell definitely has the advantage on putting everything exactly where it needs to be in that very very cramped enclosure. In some places a mm out of sorts would cause you an issue. So I don't know if I'd recommend using another one unless you know it fits perfectly.
Asmodeus

Member
Registered:
Posts: 44
Reply with quote  #26 
Ok. So there are days when I wish personal accountability wasn't an inherent counterbalance to my strong belief in personal freedom. Today is one of those days...

I vaped some (new) LG HG2's down to where the car ride home had dropped the temps enough that I would touch into the check battery warning. These 20A batteries were essentially useless because around 3.8v (each) they were done-zo.

I put them in the minikin v1.5 and screwed my atty on (.09 twice twisted 26g spaced). This is right around what it won't fire. No issues. Insert a long string of expletives. K. All done. I figured I'd Amazon prime up some parts and either way the DNA was coming apart... Now.

Good thing my epoxy held to the anodized case - not at all. Lots of very gentle prying mm by mm and I snuck the battery tray out and began removing the contacts from it.

And that's when I earned my (@ss) hat, which, I will now wear because of that infernal accountability thing...

My pack bridge was... the cell tap. I went through the effort of stripping in the middle of the wire so it was exactly spaced perfectly on back side of the battery contacts, and the end perfectly soldered to the adjacent tab. And... must have been so satisfied with my cleanliness, I never actually bridged the contacts/pack with an appropriate gauge wire...

So a small portion of a 22g wire resting neatly on the top side contacts was all that was letting current flow.

So I'm dumb AF. Which, is usually the problem in life. Having trouble there little dude? Why yes, yes I am... It's cause you're stupid. Yes. Yes it is.


After carefully balancing the tray on some tape I was able to put those same batteries back in and fire them in DM with barely any sag at all, and very little difference between them. After juicing the atty 2-3 times on the same batteries that gave me the issue before I started I declared victory, taped it back up and glued it back in with super glue. If I still have issues this tray is now almost destroyed and I will replace it.

Image may not conform to the level of forum appropriateness, but it is appropriate for (me) this situation. Wearing the hat unless it genuinely bothers someone.

Attached Images
jpeg Ass_clown_cereal.jpg (41.84 KB, 5 views)

ChunkyButt200

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 1,516
Reply with quote  #27 
LOL, good to hear it's finally working out in the DNA's favor. think of it like trying to drink a milkshake through one of those tiny coffee stir straws (milkshake being the current, stir straw being the wire and you are the DNA 167).
__________________
1.21 JIGAWATTS............GREAT SCOTT!........WHAT THE HELL IS A JIGAWATT?
• I am not employed by nor do I represent Evolv Inc.  All opinions are my own, they are just opinion not fact and can be wrong •
Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200 • DNA 75  Common problems
EVOLV HELP DESK - https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/?a=add
LOST VAPE WARRANTY REPAIR - http://www.lostvaperepaircenter.com
dwcraig1

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 1,248
Reply with quote  #28 
Over all a pretty good post, glad you found the problem
__________________
I am not connected with and do not represent Evolv Inc. All opinions are my own. They are just opinions and may not be correct.
JTree

Member
Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmodeus
Ok. So there are days when I wish personal accountability wasn't an inherent counterbalance to my strong belief in personal freedom. Today is one of those days...

I vaped some (new) LG HG2's down to where the car ride home had dropped the temps enough that I would touch into the check battery warning. These 20A batteries were essentially useless because around 3.8v (each) they were done-zo.

I put them in the minikin v1.5 and screwed my atty on (.09 twice twisted 26g spaced). This is right around what it won't fire. No issues. Insert a long string of expletives. K. All done. I figured I'd Amazon prime up some parts and either way the DNA was coming apart... Now.

Good thing my epoxy held to the anodized case - not at all. Lots of very gentle prying mm by mm and I snuck the battery tray out and began removing the contacts from it.

And that's when I earned my (@ss) hat, which, I will now wear because of that infernal accountability thing...

My pack bridge was... the cell tap. I went through the effort of stripping in the middle of the wire so it was exactly spaced perfectly on back side of the battery contacts, and the end perfectly soldered to the adjacent tab. And... must have been so satisfied with my cleanliness, I never actually bridged the contacts/pack with an appropriate gauge wire...

So a small portion of a 22g wire resting neatly on the top side contacts was all that was letting current flow.

So I'm dumb AF. Which, is usually the problem in life. Having trouble there little dude? Why yes, yes I am... It's cause you're stupid. Yes. Yes it is.


After carefully balancing the tray on some tape I was able to put those same batteries back in and fire them in DM with barely any sag at all, and very little difference between them. After juicing the atty 2-3 times on the same batteries that gave me the issue before I started I declared victory, taped it back up and glued it back in with super glue. If I still have issues this tray is now almost destroyed and I will replace it.

Image may not conform to the level of forum appropriateness, but it is appropriate for (me) this situation. Wearing the hat unless it genuinely bothers someone.


Hey man, thanks for breaking the bill of that hat in. I'll be taking that from you now, as I've earned the wearing of it for a time.

Ok, so this morning my build finally went nuclear and so I was of the same opinion. "I'may going in with a different, modified sled and I'm going to make this work." The battery monitor was oscillating between full and empty, and I was getting an intermittent "imbalanced" message.

I started tearing stuff apart. Thankfully I never soldered the sled in (no real need to IMO, as it wants to sit right and battery swaps don'the make it move even a little). Lo and behold, as soon as I unmounted the board and pulled the sled out, the wire I had soldered from the positive to the balance tab broke right off....I had apparently gotten a little agressive when striping it and damaged most of the filaments in the core. Soldered in a new wire, screwed the board down, and my wife is back on track sacking down my juice supply.
JTree

Member
Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #30 
[smile]

Attached Images
jpeg 1489956422243-1187320329.jpg (105.13 KB, 9 views)

Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.