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esoj413

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Reply with quote  #1 
Device: Hcigar vt75

Coil: SS316L 28 gauge 11 wrap around 2.5mm

Raw Ohms- .569
Nominal Ohms- .564 (kanthal) .571 temp
Room temp- 73.21 F

I can't get a good vape unless I set the temp to over 500 degrees. On another device, I would get similar results at much lower settings. I set my watts to 30, preheat to 1, bad result. Watts to 30 preheat to 30, bad result. Adjust the resistance by a few increments, bad result. Rebuilt coil, cleaned all threads, adjusted cathode pin on mod, bad result. Mod resistance is set to 0, haven't gotten around to changing that, but if I'm adjusting the resistance of the build by a few increments to no avail, then would adjusting the resistance of the mod make that much of a difference? I love the features of the DNA chipset, the escribe software is refreshing after being with YIHI, and I love the consistency of the TC when it works right. Would anyone be willing to kindly explain how I can fine tune the settings so I may enjoy using TC with this device? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. Oh, and then with the atomizer analyzer, I have the resistance set to lock in the main screen. Then I unlock resistance from the analyzer, but it still indicates locked despite uploading the settings, and then connecting and downloading the settings.              

-Joe
black lace

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Reply with quote  #2 
Dont know if youv had a look towards the end of the thread https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/build-help-for-tc-for-therion-133-and-avoc-24-using-ss-316l-26g-8342893?pid=1294248161
where a chap was giving me some advice on setting up a stainless coil, you have described the problems i suffer when using the stuff, i can only add make sure your coil aint shorting against the sides of whatever atty ect and the board is cold as the coil.
can only think about ohms still locked after uploading settings, are you changeing from one preset to anouther and have some locked and some open and got them mixed up.. im not sure if its possible to create a file that also locks ohms, but you can easily try it by selecting an empty preset and then select that file profile to the preset and see if its locked ohms when you fire with an atty attached.
esoj413

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks, Black lace. I switched up the build, didn't mess with any settings other than making it temperature dominant. Didn't even lock the resistance and this thing is putting out dense flavorful clouds at 45 watts and 460 degrees. I have a lot to learn, and I'm looking forward to browsing these threads for more info. I'm just thankful I have no more dry hits and my 26650 has been goin hard since yesterday afternoon. Cheers.
black lace

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Reply with quote  #4 
The problem i had was i would do a build gef it running no worries, then go back to it a few hours later and it would be all over the place, like it was shorting, fireing out of control no control.. so havnt used it for some time because am happy and probly set in my ways with the Nife30..
esoj413

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Reply with quote  #5 
Funny you mention that. My temperature started indicating 800 degrees and going into instant temp protect mode. I plugged it into the computer to check it out and noticed the ohm's readings were way out of whack. Checked the deck and sure enough a few of the screws were loose, tightened them down and no issues since.
black lace

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Reply with quote  #6 
I only have the aromatizers where i actually poke the coil lead legs through the holes and tighten the grub screws in,,, everything els i have i avoid the coil lead holes and wrap my lead legs under the screw heads (most upgraded to alen bolts) and tighten down like that for a moor definate connection,, and they dont usualy back off after heating, ,,is one way,,,, in the thread i mentioned earlier the chap was saying dry burn the coil first,,, so what i will do next time i try a stainless build is dry burn the coil in watts mode beffor wicking, might get better results.
esoj413

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Reply with quote  #7 
I've never used anything other than SS. I like that you can dry burn it. It's also nice that it doesn't gunk up easily in tc mode, especially with spaced coils
Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #8 
@esoj413 you said "Didn't even lock the resistance", don't lock the resistance unless you have a shitty build with jumpy ohms. It's usually a build problem. 

Also gunking coils is usually from highly sweetened juice. If they gunked before they probably still will. That can partially be fixed by a build that heats and cools quickly so the sugars don't carmelize on the coil.

As for dry burning your coils beforehand, I'd suggest a slow gentle pulse. They don't need to get red hot, just heating evenly from the middle out.

Enjoy your mod.  [thumb]

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esoj413

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Reply with quote  #9 
Yea this thing is great. It's doing fine on its own without me trying to adjust the settings. I'll tweak it as I learn.

Can you recommend a build? I agree about the juice type factoring in cuz some gunk up more than others. And yea, I pulse at very low wattage. They usually turn a nice color blue.
Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #10 
Can I recommend a build ........... I wouldn't even try. We are all different, but I could easily vape your info in post 1 and 3. One of the main things that will affect you hitting your temp is that initial wattage, and the punch setting. Here's an example to show you what I mean, and set this as an used profile.

Keep your settings, exactly 'as is' in one profile you're enjoying.
In an unused profile, set your preheat to 60 watts, punch 11, and 2 seconds. Same build as you have now. (Upload to device)
Using your normal settings -> With Device Monitor running, and mod sitting on the table ....... on the left click on Power, Temperature and Temperature Set. On the bottom right hand corner choose "Puff", then 4 seconds. Escribe will fire the mod for that duration. Watch the red line as it climbs to what you set. Now do the same thing AFTER changing to the more aggressive settings.

Apart from a more linear increase in the test settings, you should also notice how that Power (green) curve has decreased more than half in both. It's really there just to get your coil up to temp. 

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Viruk

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Reply with quote  #11 
Have you tried the csv for SS316L that I posted in the thread Black Lace linked to?
I found that to be more effective for me than the default on the device - but as always YMMV.

Dry burning is great for working out any hotspots. This would need to be done in wattage mode as a correctly configured temp control profile should stop you getting the coils so hot they'd be glowing.

Check your build is stable using the atomiser analyser and make sure you've allowed the coil to completely cool to room temperature before swapping to your temp control profile.

I can post the profile I use - but I'm unlikely to be able to get that until January as I'm travelling for 3 weeks. My settings are also much more aggressive than yours so may not be appropriate for your build.

For stainless I'd recommend starting with a low punch setting. Also test with the device monitor open and look at what your resistance is doing while firing it.

I believe the temperature dominant setting is just for display purposes and shows the temp in the largest text on the screen.

And finally - I strongly agree with wayneo's advice in numerous discussions - avoid locking your resistance. The DNA chip doesn't need to be locked and it's a workaround for a more fundamental problem. Get your build right and the chip will do the rest without locking your resistance.
esoj413

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Reply with quote  #12 
I downloaded a SS profile off lightning vapes. Been going low on the preheat and playing around with the settings, tuning things as needed for different builds. This thing is awesome. Such a great experience. You've all been very helpful. Thank you.
Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #13 
So I'll guess it sorta looks like this @ 450F?

450F.PNG 


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