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giz_60

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Reply with quote  #76 
These pics are of one of my 75's... AA still works properly with a shorting plug...different atty...


With Atomizer Attached.PNG  With Brass Mod Resistance Tool.PNG 


dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #77 
Call me skeptical, I tried on my SMY SDNA75 which tests out to 0.002 ohm with tool. With an atty with 0.07 resistance it came out to 0.002 -0.003 with above method. But with an atty with a higher resistance (0.58 ohms) I got something around 0.008 ohms.
Of coarse there's always the possibility that I didn't do it correctly....these things happen here on occasion (many)

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giz_60

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Reply with quote  #78 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
Call me skeptical, I tried on my SMY SDNA75 which tests out to 0.002 ohm with tool. With an atty with 0.07 resistance it came out to 0.002 -0.003 with above method. But with an atty with a higher resistance (0.58 ohms) I got something around 0.008 ohms.
Of coarse there's always the possibility that I didn't do it correctly....these things happen here on occasion (many)


Tried that here too....different atty, same mod...
Edit: atty & coil are brand new

.52 Coil.PNG 

dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #79 
My first atty (Velocity) is a good candidate for checking but my 2nd one was a Merlin. The Merlin very well may have needed a good cleaning.
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Catharsis70

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Reply with quote  #80 
Went with the giz method. Everything very clean. Brand new tank base and coil. Real resistance triple checked (two devices and a meter) for same or within reason same resistance all three. I could not get raw ohms to remain stable. Tightening, loosening. Tightened down more than my comfort level. Moving within 0.001 up and down from most stable number. Got a lock for about 10 seconds and used that numbrer. Final number 0.003 which seems to be a common range for 250 devices. Shave a hair off for safety margin inputting 0.00285. Vaping in temp mode beautifuly now even on SS nothch coils. Seems liks it reads cold ohms a hair low so I may fiddle the mod resistance input a bit to get it closer but otherwise its like a different mod.
Thanks for the tip
Catharsis70

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Reply with quote  #81 
Curious.... Does this need to be carried out for each profile/wire type or it global?
giz_60

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Reply with quote  #82 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catharsis70
Went with the giz method. Everything very clean. Brand new tank base and coil. Real resistance triple checked (two devices and a meter) for same or within reason same resistance all three. I could not get raw ohms to remain stable. Tightening, loosening. Tightened down more than my comfort level. Moving within 0.001 up and down from most stable number. Got a lock for about 10 seconds and used that numbrer. Final number 0.003 which seems to be a common range for 250 devices. Shave a hair off for safety margin inputting 0.00285. Vaping in temp mode beautifuly now even on SS nothch coils. Seems liks it reads cold ohms a hair low so I may fiddle the mod resistance input a bit to get it closer but otherwise its like a different mod. Thanks for the tip


What type of atomizer?  You will also need to remember, that any device, whether it be another mod or meter, that you are using to measure resistance, is going to have a slight amount of internal resistance...just the nature of the beast. The meter I use most often has about .oo2Ω resistance, so the resistance is going to read slightly lower on the DNA. Also, when tapping the fire button to set the cold ohms, if you are using a TC wire, you are going to raise the ohms slightly due to a small amount of heat being produced. I turned everything as low as it can go...Temp,Power,all pre-heat settings as low as possible
giz_60

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Reply with quote  #83 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catharsis70
Curious.... Does this need to be carried out for each profile/wire type or it global?


This is a global setting...just measuring the internal resistance of the mod...
Catharsis70

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Reply with quote  #84 
I used a 25mm Supertank base and stock 0.2 kanthal coil. I know my atomizer meter is of by 0.012 as read by a buddys fluke meter. Dont know about the base and theres no accounting that an 0.2 prebuilt coil is gonna come in exact. I get that. Thats why I used a few ways to check and kind went with an average. I did set everything to minimum in power mode to set cold resistance. One thing I didnt think to ask is does the mod need to be connected to escribe when I pulse for cold reading or does it not make a difference? Also is it normal for the raw to fluctuate with the atty screwed down as tight as possible? Maybe I need to use something with a slightly longer 510 connector?
giz_60

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Reply with quote  #85 
Doesn't have to be hook up to Escribe to set cold ohms...the resistance should be fairly stable if everything on the build is stable. Does that base have a floating pin? Does the coil come into direct contact with the devices 510 pin or transfer resistance through the base? Stock coils can be iffy at times as well...
Catharsis70

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Reply with quote  #86 
Yes the base has a floater between the mod 510 and contact with the coil. I probably should have thought about that. I can remedy and upward movement Im pretty sure. So the mods positive 510 pin needs to be totally bottomed out or just unable to shift in position? Thanks for all the uber fast responses.
giz_60

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Reply with quote  #87 
Most attys with floating 510 pins are notorious for having a fluctuating resistance issue. The mods 510 pin doesn't need to be bottomed out, there just needs to be a good stable connection between the mod & the coil....at least for a good TC vaping experience...but the floating pin is most likely where your resistance fluctuation is coming from...
Catharsis70

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Reply with quote  #88 
I put s couple pieces of very very small diameter plastic rods inside the insulator for the atty 510 pin and then replaced the pin. Very hard to get in and move. Then I pushed the base pin side down on the counter top with a good amount of force to make sure it was solid against the coil contact. No more fluctuation. Thanks yet again. Now im questioning using these tanks for TC. Maybe I could find parts and diy stationary pins for them. I like the Supertanks a lot but havs from time to time had TC issues and no atomizer warnings. Probably all the floating pin then. Or maybe a stronger spring in the mods 510. Id just do the plastic trick but I think with heat and contract/expand events the pins pressure against the positive wire inside the middle of the insulator may become problematic. I always felt the tanks 510 pin was just a lil shorter than it needed to be too.
txmonkey214

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Reply with quote  #89 
I bought the copper 510 plug to set my internal resistance. It was off, like the DNA75 posted by Giz-60. Mine read .006, for fleeting moment. The rest of the time, it was at .007-.008. I tried .006. Ohms readings were way off. The mod ran too hot, and too cold. TC accuracy? It was a thing of the past.  It caused me nothing but problems. There needs to be some effort on every manufacturer's part to get the setting right, coming out the doors.
Catharsis70

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Reply with quote  #90 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catharsis70
I put s couple pieces of very very small diameter plastic rods inside the insulator for the atty 510 pin and then replaced the pin. Very hard to get in and move. Then I pushed the base pin side down on the counter top with a good amount of force to make sure it was solid against the coil contact. No more fluctuation. Thanks yet again. Now im questioning using these tanks for TC. Maybe I could find parts and diy stationary pins for them. I like the Supertanks a lot but havs from time to time had TC issues and no atomizer warnings. Probably all the floating pin then. Or maybe a stronger spring in the mods 510. Id just do the plastic trick but I think with heat and contract/expand events the pins pressure against the positive wire inside the middle of the insulator may become problematic. I always felt the tanks 510 pin was just a lil shorter than it needed to be too.
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