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Ramrod

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Reply with quote  #1 

Received the mod Friday afternoon.

Charged the battery with provided RC charger and noticed the battery meter wasn’t showing full. Installed EScribe and loaded updated firmware then entered the correct battery specification 10 WH 3-cell LiPo which corrected the battery meter.

Mod worked fine that evening and all day Saturday.
Charged via USB overnight.
Sunday morning the mod worked fine for about an hour and then just stopped working altogether.
Blank screen, won’t fire, won’t connect to PC.


I’ve checked:

Battery is 80% charged and all cells are showing correct voltages at the main connector and the battery balance connector.
On-board Fuse continuity OK & Battery Voltage is present beyond the fuse.
Good continuity from 510 threads to battery –ve and output –ve (via mod body and screw in standoffs)
Visually I cannot see any burned up components.

The mod seems very well constructed so it would appear I have a failed board.
It is a simple 3 wire installation using the case as ground.
Mod serial number is 0013.
IIRC EScribe reported the board DOM as June 2015.

Anything else I should check before making a warranty claim through the vendor?
 


digatel

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Reply with quote  #2 
I was thinking about buying one of those, because they were having a promo, but am not familiar with Hotcig and haven't heard anything about them.

1.) Other than the bad board, does it seem like a reliable build?

2.) How do the tanks look on it? Reason I'm asking is because it looks like the 510 protrudes a little bit, which gave me some concerns.

3.) what keeps the unit together? Magnets? Notches?
Ramrod

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IMO it is really well built.
The 510 protrudes but not higher than the top of the 22 mm atomizer well set into the top of the mod.

The battery holds firmly to the power module by magnets at the top and the battery connectors at the bottom.

My only concern regarding construction is that the 510 does not appear to be sealed, but adding an o-ring of the correct size will sort that out.

Another member has posted some pictures in http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/lets-see-your-200s-7492243?pid=1289399568 which show the internals.

Bapgood

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Reply with quote  #4 
As a general rule...If EScribe no longer recognizes the mod/dna its time to contact the manufacturer of the mod or Evolv if you purchased the dna and built the mod.
Podunk Steam

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Reply with quote  #5 
The 510s negative connection I'd have in question, it's been my only concern as I have one of the Hotcigs too. I originally intended to change out the 510 connector but didn't find need after opening the device up.
I've personally been running below spec just to see if anything goes South early on, 0.04 ohms resistance coil but only pushed at 30 watts so far. This has been in an effort to see how the questionable negative contact at the 510 would hold. 
Pics for reference.
[IMG_20150927_215447_zps92xjftxj] 
[IMG_20150927_105315_zpskbcy6jxl]
Hotcig #0113





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dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #6 
Re 510: I measured the voltage between the battery negative and base of atty (0.35Ω) while firing and got 0.14 volts on my Hotcig and 0.03 volts on my Opus. I made up a little puller to pull the pressed in one out to replace with a FD v3 shorty. The hold back for me is possible need of warranty and it works just fine.
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Podunk Steam

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Reply with quote  #7 
In my non-warrantied cracked up crystal ball I see fabrication of a 510 puller in my near future.

Thanks for the input!

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dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #8 
see next one












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dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #9 
I would rather used a 7 x .50 mm bolt but I only have the tap. Screw nut onto the tap as shown, then washer, then receiver and screw into 510. Hold tap from turning and screw nut downward drawing 510 into nylon sleeve. My nut here is a VS rDNA 510 with it's one end drilled out. Crude but effective.
[image] 



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digatel

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Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
I would rather used a 7 x .50 mm bolt but I only have the tap. Screw nut onto the tap as shown, then washer, then receiver and screw into 510. Hold tap from turning and screw nut downward drawing 510 into nylon sleeve. My nut here is a VS rDNA 510 with it's one end drilled out. Crude but effective.
[image] 



So, I'm confused, did you replace the 510 it came with? If so, do you have pictures?
Podunk Steam

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Reply with quote  #11 
What he has posted is known as a pulling tool, the washer sits on top of the cylinder that has a larger inner diameter than the existing 510 connector, the thread tap or preferred bolt as mentioned runs through the washer and the cylinder and tightens into the threads in the connector, then the nut on the bolt/tap is tightened. This tightening will pull the press fit connector out. Yes he replaced his 510 connector and this was the means he used to remove the original 510 connector.
You're likely going to want a thread tap to install a new connector, it looks tight for a locking nut in there!

Thanks for the post dwcraig1!

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dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #12 
I just about replaced it just to get it off my mind but it really works OK so I'm leaving it be for now. 
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Podunk Steam

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Reply with quote  #13 
Oh, my bad, I thought you had replaced it. 
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Mad Scientist

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Reply with quote  #14 
I have found this specialized tool is also effective to remove pressed in 510 connectors. [biggrin]  Place the frame over a hole in a block and give the 510 a few good whacks from the back side.

hammer.jpg 

Brandon

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Reply with quote  #15 
Yep, bought one of those too and they work great!  And surprisingly cheap.
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