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Conanthewarrior

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by retird
Good thoughts..... how about just sanding down the door a bit?   just a thought.....


That does seem like a good idea actually, and is probably a better idea than removing the reverse polarity rings just incase I did accidentally have a forgetful moment and put them in wrong. 

I don't have an electric sander though, what is the best way to sand down this type of door? I have a dremel lol, would that work with the correct tool?
retird

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Reply with quote  #17 
I suppose you could use a dremel but I never figured out how to make a straight line while using the sanding wheel.  
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I am not an employee of and do not represent Evolv Inc.  My opinions are just that and are not meant to be fact or even correct.

Conanthewarrior

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Reply with quote  #18 
Well luckily I haven't had to do this yet- after the last adjustment, and also adjusting the negative screw, it has been working well!

I haven't changed the batteries though, I have used USB charging, as I have so many mods it isn't an issue waiting for it to charge. 

When the time comes though to change out these HE4's, I may sand the door down, I actually have a garage full of tools passed down to me from my Grandfather (He is still alive, he lives here but I can use his tools), so when I said I didn't have a sander, I meant something I knew how to use lol. 

I think one of the tools is a Grinder/Sander, I just don't know how to use it, so will have to check that out as it may give me a better result than the dremel- the dremel is mine, and I use it for small projects.
dl12345

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Reply with quote  #19 
I have a Wismec DNA200 which I have completely disassembled since I replaced the 510 connector with a FDV V4 low profile short connector (which required quite a bit of surgery on a donor RX200 case with a Dremel).  I have desoldered everything and cut down the battery compartment a little to give clearance for the 510, so I am familiar with the internals.

The battery sled design is very poor. Reading your description of what you did to fix it, it's possible that the battery connectors in the top and the bottom of the sled are not making decent contact. The way you describe pushing on the sides fixing the problem seems to point to the brass cup connectors at the back part of the battery sled not making proper contact, as pushing in on the sides will cause the lids on the sled to have less "play" in it and therefore the spring under the cup connectors will force them into better contact with the battery.

The problem is likely with the top connectors. Unfortunately the lid at the top and bottom of the battery sled is only fixed on by a single screw that is located towards the front of the apex of the triangle formed by the lid. If the door and case machining tolerance is machined slightly too loosely, then the back part of the lid won't press down enough. The spring loaded cups at the top are at the rear part of the compartment (the ground connector at the top left rear is one of these), so the most likely candidate for this problem.

I'm not sure whether this would work, but since it is simple it's worth a try. Cut and fold a piece of paper (as many times as you can and still have it fit in) and wedge it between the battery sled and the top of the case - the paper should only cover the part of the sled at the rear contacts as the screw at the front is good enough to keep the lid firmly in contact with the front connector. This would help to force the back of the lid down and compress the spring more so that there is greater force exerted on the battery. You need a T6 to loosen the screws on the top and bottom of the case in order to be able to remove the battery sled.

black lace

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Reply with quote  #20 
I dont have this mod so forgive me if i'm suggesting what may sound like rubbish but for what you have described it sounds like you wont be reguly removing the batteries,, so why not strip out the sled and either convert to a lipo or tape together your batteries then solder and wire them together in series and either glue them in or place and pack them in, i remember when that mod came out and i think it was "xevape" put some shots of its innards up and said he was going to strip it out and convert to lipo.. and rewire because it didnt look duty enough, and i think you have confirmed that..
Adri

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Reply with quote  #21 
I tried contacting Wismec support once.
They were very helpfull initially, but after confirming a problem, Wismec didn't want to ofer any guarantee.
I was told to contact the vendor, since Wismec only deals with vendors or distributors, not end users. [frown]
The vendor then wanted me to go through the whole process of proving the problem again and in the end denied warranty.

Good luck with Wismec.

black lace

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Reply with quote  #22 
I can only suggest when buying anything of value allways try and get it as close to home as you possibly can and do a face to face transaction, then when things go wrong you can tackle it face to face...
Conanthewarrior

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Reply with quote  #23 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dl12345
I have a Wismec DNA200 which I have completely disassembled since I replaced the 510 connector with a FDV V4 low profile short connector (which required quite a bit of surgery on a donor RX200 case with a Dremel).  I have desoldered everything and cut down the battery compartment a little to give clearance for the 510, so I am familiar with the internals.

The battery sled design is very poor. Reading your description of what you did to fix it, it's possible that the battery connectors in the top and the bottom of the sled are not making decent contact. The way you describe pushing on the sides fixing the problem seems to point to the brass cup connectors at the back part of the battery sled not making proper contact, as pushing in on the sides will cause the lids on the sled to have less "play" in it and therefore the spring under the cup connectors will force them into better contact with the battery.

The problem is likely with the top connectors. Unfortunately the lid at the top and bottom of the battery sled is only fixed on by a single screw that is located towards the front of the apex of the triangle formed by the lid. If the door and case machining tolerance is machined slightly too loosely, then the back part of the lid won't press down enough. The spring loaded cups at the top are at the rear part of the compartment (the ground connector at the top left rear is one of these), so the most likely candidate for this problem.

I'm not sure whether this would work, but since it is simple it's worth a try. Cut and fold a piece of paper (as many times as you can and still have it fit in) and wedge it between the battery sled and the top of the case - the paper should only cover the part of the sled at the rear contacts as the screw at the front is good enough to keep the lid firmly in contact with the front connector. This would help to force the back of the lid down and compress the spring more so that there is greater force exerted on the battery. You need a T6 to loosen the screws on the top and bottom of the case in order to be able to remove the battery sled.



Hello, thank you for your helpful reply. 

I may of described my fix wrongly, I do not squeeze the sides of the mod, I have to remove the door and then press down, squeezing the top and bottom of the mod together, which bends the top portion of the mod slightly and makes the batteries tighter to insert/ remove. 

The piece of paper idea seems great though, I will definitely try this as it sounds as if it will move the connections the correct way with my issue. 

I am sure I have a T6 somewhere, I will dig it out and then try this. Thank you for your help. 
dl12345

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Posts: 47
Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adri
I tried contacting Wismec support once.
They were very helpfull initially, but after confirming a problem, Wismec didn't want to ofer any guarantee.
I was told to contact the vendor, since Wismec only deals with vendors or distributors, not end users. [frown]
The vendor then wanted me to go through the whole process of proving the problem again and in the end denied warranty.

Good luck with Wismec.



I had a similar experience. I have bought a Wismec RX200 and a DNA200. On both of the devices, the 510 connection became stuck in the "down" position. On the RX200, the thread was badly tapped and eventually stripped itself.

They denied warranty in both cases. In the case of the RX200 they even went so far as to accuse me of using a Smoke TFV4 which they said had a long and unsupported connector. I don't own a TFV4.

Eventually I cannibalised the RX200 for parts - I cut down the front portion of the case by using a dremel to remove the 510 mount under the top of the lid then drilled a larger hole and fitted a new FDV V4 510. I also took the sled out of the RX200 and used it for the DNA 200, which required cutting it a bit so the 510 connector's nut didn't impinge against it. The board and battery contacts, front faceplate and battery cover came from the DNA200, so I now have a bastard child of a RX200 and DNA200 Releaux that functions much better than the original due to the far superior 510 connector.

When I sent Wismec a photo of the 510 and asked how come two devices had the same problem, they implied user error. So no, not impressed with their after sales service. I had even requested that they send me a new 510 connection which I would fit myself and they refused point blank.

As a general rule, the mod manufacturers sometimes take some serious shortcuts. In particular, I don't understand why they insist on putting such poor quality 510s in. It's such an important component that it sure makes sense to spend the extra dollar or so to put in a decent quality part.
John la

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Posts: 59
Reply with quote  #25 
Almost a 190 000 puffs from my hcigar vt200

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