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shawngibson

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Reply with quote  #16 
Understood. I need on-on-on. This one is 5 amps @ 125V AC. I think that would work? Much smaller, too...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Black-Bat-Lever-ON-ON-ON-DPDT-Mini-Toggle-Switch-Guitar-Bass-EP-4180-003-/322224072463?hash=item4b060d270f:g:9tkAAOSwT5tWMv7B


PS, I don't think I've ever vaped beyond 35 Watts.
BillW50

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Reply with quote  #17 
Well when I worked in a lab (I am retired now) I use to have access to test equipment that I could test them. And you could push them way pass their specs most of the time. And without the equipment, I would try it and monitor the temperature and check for any voltage drop. For vaping, normally you would never draw more than 20 seconds tops. So even check for 20 seconds. No voltage drop nor any heat, I'd say you are good to go. Gee they want 10 bucks for those switches nowadays? Geez.
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #18 
Inflation is a bummer, Bill.  I remember gas, high test at that, at .239 a gallon.  What happened to that?   [eek]
BillW50

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Reply with quote  #19 
[frown]
shawngibson

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Reply with quote  #20 
Do you guys have any idea what the inside of a Chainsmoker Mod looks like? I'm thinking that starting with 2 of them for parts would be a good idea. I assume when you remove the wooden outer section, you probably end up with parts that you can turn into whatever shape you want...

Or is this just crazy talk lol?
Shawn

ps Bill, my draws range from 2 to 6 seconds. Any longer of a draw and I'd probably pass out lol.


retird

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Reply with quote  #21 





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txmonkey214

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Reply with quote  #22 
That's over the top, but a fun plan. Are you going to make it a desktop mod? Maybe a DNA 200/250 Hubbly Bubbly Hookah? Please post pics, if you make one.
shawngibson

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Reply with quote  #23 
Thanks Retird. I think I've seen every decent video on the Chainsmoker...but none of them show someone taking it apart to show the guts[frown]

TX - definitely not something I'll carry around, more like a "leave at work" thing lol.

Guys, out of curiosity, is it possible to build a rotary dial that sets the wattage between 5 and 30 Watts, and another rotary that sets the voltage between 3.7 and 4.2 volts? I'd like to make a mechanical (i.e. non-pc board) setup, moreso out of curiosity on how it would be built than anything else...

Below 3.7 volts it doesn't fire, and it's hard-wired to stop at 4.2 volts.

Also hard-wired to never go beyond 30 Watts.

And of course, a 20 Amp fuse[smile]

How might that look without a circuit board?

Merci!
Shawn
shawngibson

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Reply with quote  #24 
Hi guys, me again. This is the only switch I've found that will 'probably' work, according to the salesperson:

http://www.digikey.com/short/3h25b4

Also, my above post. Brainfart, obviously I only need something to control the voltage as the wattage is a function of that and the resistance, and apparently the math is volts(squared)/resistance=watts

It seems the OKR chip will do that:

http://findmyvapes.com/how-to-build-an-okr-box-mod-tutorial/

Shawn
retird

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Reply with quote  #25 
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/easy-okr-t-vv-mod.191607/#post-3302009



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shawngibson

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Reply with quote  #26 
Awesome, thanks Retird...lots of reading there[smile]
Shawn
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #27 
Shawn, unless I'm missing something key, the toggle style switches you are looking at are double pole switches.  Looking at the data sheet it looks, to me. like it won't do what you're trying to accomplish in terms of switching.  If it did it would list something like 1-2 ON, 3-4 ON, 5-6 ON depending on handle position.  What you're actually looking for is three single pole switches mounted in one enclosure and controlled by a single bat handle.  The best solution for that would be a either a single or double pole, three position, rotary switch and, again, current capacity and resistance of the contacts is a real concern.  You're dealing with some, potentially, high current especially when Mr. Murphy gets into the mix and a coil gives you fits.

The DNA chip will control power, and hence voltage and current, based on the resistance of your coil.  Whether that control is based on a voltage setting or a power setting has no bearing on the situation for vaping as far as I can see.  Whether the desired result is achieved by setting voltage to achieve a power level or simply setting the power level, directly, the result is the same.  Additionally, if you use the TC mode, it will control that quite closely for then entire draw.

The opinions expressed are worth exactly what you're paying for them, no more, no less.
retird

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Reply with quote  #28 
Another chip to consider.....  Variable Voltage using the PTR08100W regulator

I built this one in 2011...... size of a Zippo Lighter...  

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/wood-box-mod.199079/

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shawngibson

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Reply with quote  #29 
Thanks Awsum. So something like this?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k-components/7211MD9ABE/CKN1491-ND/483870

As for current, I have a Melo 3 mini, and vape it at 50.6W/3.7V and have never gone over 13.x amps. Everything else I vape is between 15 and 25W at 3.7 to 4.2 volts (I never go over 4.2 or under 3.7), i.e. not 'hot'.

I don't really want to throw a rotary on for "atty toggling" because it loses a bit of the cool factor to me lol.

I've also come to the realization that I want to build two triple-attys, one mechanical with voltage control, and one using just the DNA75.

Ultimately, I'd like to build these for fun (normal, 1 atty mods), so right now I'm trying to build the crazy one in my head as a way into learning and having fun.

As an artist, I've always wanted to build something beautiful AND utilitarian...just so I can patina the hell out of it lol. For instance, my Picos (yeah I know, kinda silly, but...)...

picos.jpg 


Spirometry

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawngibson
Thanks Awsum. So something like this?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k-components/7211MD9ABE/CKN1491-ND/483870

As for current, I have a Melo 3 mini, and vape it at 50.6W/3.7V and have never gone over 13.x amps. Everything else I vape is between 15 and 25W at 3.7 to 4.2 volts (I never go over 4.2 or under 3.7), i.e. not 'hot'.

I don't really want to throw a rotary on for "atty toggling" because it loses a bit of the cool factor to me lol.





That is the same type of switch as the Honeywell you posted earlier, 3 position DPDT. You still would have to add the jumper that I showed you to convert it into a SP3T. The Honeywell being rated for more amps.

Basically these switches have 3 positions. Both contacts up, both contacts down, and in the center position one set of contacts go up and the other set go down.
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