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Darklyspectre

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Reply with quote  #1 
So I have been having issues with getting a good vape of my DIY DNA 200. 

Essentially I have tried nickel and titanium prebuild coils so far(drippers dont do it for me) and every time the vape is extremely weak. Like I have been vaping on a herakles ni200 coil at 600F and its very weak. at 500F I can take stupidly long drags while holding the tip of my tongue above the drip tip and it would just feel like air. 

NI200 and titanium coils(with the steam-engine CVS ofcourse) for the TFV4 have given me the same result though if I remember right the titanium gave me a slightly better result. 

So steps I have done. 

  • Firmware and escribe are up to date. 
  • atomizer is cool.
  • I have done the mod resistance test. shorted out a doge V2 with like a super short piece of 18 gauge copper. internal resistance ended up being 0.016 so I entered 90% of that which was 0.0144
But still the vape is weak. 

I just don't understand why. I highly doubt a herakles at 600F is supposed to feel cool. It works great in standard mode but in temp control it feels extremely weak. 

I have tried so many things and I can't figure out what is up. 
David247

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi can you give some details of your build
Regard David
Darklyspectre

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Reply with quote  #3 
You talking about the mod itself or the atomizer?

the atomizer is just the ni200 coils for the sense herakles and the ni200 and TI coils for the SMOK TFV4. 

the mod itself is using all the recommended wiring for the chip. the 510 is a fat daddy V4. my own buttons instead of onboard. I have met all the requirements in terms of wires and I have done the internal resistance test and applied the correct mod resistance in escribe.
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #4 
Two questions for you -

1 - What power level are you at?

2 - Have you used device monitor in escribe to watch what's going on when you vape on it?
Darklyspectre

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Reply with quote  #5 
preheat is 200 watts and normal watts settings is 100 watts. It doesn't make a difference if I even set it to 200 watts. 

the thing that is just weird is that I have used this tank on my RDNA40 and 40 watts barely got it to like 460-470 if I remember right. 

meanwhile on the DNA 200 apparently 35 watts is enough to keep the same coil at 600F on a full open draw. I know the preheat helps a ton but if 40 watts wasn't enough to get the coil to even touch 490 then why should 35 watts be enough to keep the temperature at 600F. 

I just don't know what is going on. if looking at the device monitor it seems fine I guess. pretty much instant jump to 600F and instant drop to said 35 watts.

I don't know who else has used the ni200 coils on the TFV4 or herakles but does 600F at 35 watts sound right?
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #6 
You've got me there.  I don't have either of those atomizers.  I can tell you that my Foggers behave exactly the same on either my DNA40 or DNA200, adjusting for the lack of a Ti curve on the DNA40.
Seigfried

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Reply with quote  #7 
so far I have found that week vapes in TC are usually caused by poor connections.  Tightening the screws holding the coils clears it up.  Try cleaning the 510 threads and the internal wick treads also look at cleaning the 510 pin inside the atomizer.  I hope this helps. 
craigdennis23

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Reply with quote  #8 
Yeah somethings wrong, I have the tfv4 and have bought the ti coils for it and with the dna set to 500 degrees it is quite warm. If I misunderstood and you rebuilt on it as well I apologize as my experience is with the prebuilt. Also the herakles ni200 coils do well too, warm at 450 ish if I remember correctly. I've been extremely impressed with the tfv4 with ti coil head though, it restricts airflow a little more than the tri ect.
Only time I've had issue is if I install something with a coil with fairly close resistance and don't pay attention and say it's the same coil (atleast I think that's happening?)
Lipoid

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Reply with quote  #9 
I do not use the premade coils in my TFV4 so cannot help with them but you could try getting to the vape you want starting low & then seeing what incremental increases does to the vape.
Start with a cold attie & DNA 200 , check the resistance with the atomiser checker & see it it corresponds to what it should be.Try pushing on the positive pin from inside your device(if you can) & see if the resistance changes significantly, if it does  unscrew attie slightly , push pin up & then rescrew on attie.My pin was a little sticky(FT V4) because of the angle of the 14 gauge was causing it to stick a little(sorted now).My mod resistance is .006 with the Fat Daddy V4.
If that is all good then try setting temp to 425f , preheat to 60 (soft) , 1 second & 40 watts power , do not lock atomiser , set airflow about 1/2 open.
Check the device monitor & see how it performs , open the airflow & check the difference.
I did take me quite a lot of fiddling to get to understand what i needed to set to get the vape i wanted.
vmax100uk

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Reply with quote  #10 
I get this with my lemo 2 and its a poor connection issue within the tank itself.
When you screw your tank on and select new coil. Take a good hard first vape then lock the ohms, does it for me.
antyac2108

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Reply with quote  #11 
Did it do it before you set the mod resistance?
Darklyspectre

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Reply with quote  #12 
Yes it did that before I did the mod resistace fix. 
dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #13 
I've been thinking about this for awhile. Not to suggest that too light of gauge wire was used here on the output but I'd like to know if doing so would fool the board into thinking the coil was hotter than it actually is. My thoughts in this case go towards the 510's solder joints, both on the board and on the socket. If one of the joints were faulty but still good enough to read the cold ohms correctly(no load) would this be the result?
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I am not connected with and do not represent Evolv Inc. All opinions are my own. They are just opinions and may not be correct.
Mad Scientist

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
I've been thinking about this for awhile. Not to suggest that too light of gauge wire was used here on the output but I'd like to know if doing so would fool the board into thinking the coil was hotter than it actually is. My thoughts in this case go towards the 510's solder joints, both on the board and on the socket. If one of the joints were faulty but still good enough to read the cold ohms correctly(no load) would this be the result?


The higher the actual static resistance (aside from the dynamic resistance of the coil), the hotter the resulting vape (unless the static resistance is compensated for in the "mod resistance"). A relatively high resistance connection when cold (like ten mOhm or so or even less) would result in a noticeably hotter vape. Firing the mod at high wattage can sometimes sort of "blast" through some minor oxidation at a connection point. The vape will stay hot until the atty cools and the mod does its refinement thing to get an accurate cold resistance.

A vape too cold generally means the dynamic resistance is increasing for reasons other than increase of the actual average temp of the coil wire. A loose or intermittent connection affected by heat (such as expansion of the parts around an "iffy" connection or a contact coil that has a shorted loop which expands to no longer short as it heats up) can cause that. Similarly, sometimes blasting an intermittent connection with power will "fix it."

In either case, ideally find out where the issue is and fix that.
shugg1967

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Reply with quote  #15 
I have weak vape problem too its a dual 8 wraps of 24g 316L on 2.5 rod spaced it work great for 3 days then i put it  back on its weak .using
 Tokugawa rda /Therion 166   good connection 
it worked great for couple day put it back on today its weak. ive had this problem before on other attys works great for a day then its act up weak vape  
weak vape.PNG  back on its weak here is a SS 

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