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alee132

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Reply with quote  #1 
I don't know if I did this correctly but it gave me similar results to what I thought I should be getting with my battery.  I just put on my velocity RDA with a .3 kanthal build in normal mode @ 40 watts without any cotton or juice, then ran the test. Now I am hearing people say you should use a resister block but I don't see why this wouldn't work if it's providing a working resistance.  Here is screen shot of it my results. I also had ran the case analyzer as well.  Are those results good or normal?  Also my battery is a 950mah 3s turnigy nano-tech 25c.

.  Escribe Screenshot Case Analyzer.jpg

techbearus

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Hmm.. don't have an answer but curious, how long did both these tests take to run.
alee132

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Quote:
Originally Posted by techbearus
Hmm.. don't have an answer but curious, how long did both these tests take to run.


Honestly they take a while.  The battery analyzer drains the battery all the way down from full so it takes along time. The other one you need 1/2- 1/4 full battery and it charges it and tests how it heats up, etc and poplulates the numbers for you. Which I am uncertain of how if any way that affects your mods preformance but there must be some reasoning behind doing it. Both take hours iirc.  If you have another mod at least which most of us do, just use it while you run both tests. It's worth it and they don't take that long. If I did mine right anyways that is.  I think it worked because my numbers are right were they should have been.
blueridgedog

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Reply with quote  #4 
Resistance is resistance.  .3 of kanthal should have worked, though you run the risk of over heating your atomizer insulators if you use a coil that is right on the atomizer.  
alee132

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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueridgedog
Resistance is resistance.  .3 of kanthal should have worked, though you run the risk of over heating your atomizer insulators if you use a coil that is right on the atomizer.  


That's what I figured but just wanted to make sure.
Nach

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Reply with quote  #6 
I would guess that if you built a coil just for this test, you could attach "non-resistance" legs to it to extend the coil away from the deck.  I know this is not practical, but it solves the melting insulators issue.
Mad Scientist

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Reply with quote  #7 
Another technique would be to just use a large loop from post to post rather than coil the wire. The difference just from free air cooling is surprisingly significant.
Spencer

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Reply with quote  #8 
Helpful pointers, thanks [cool]
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lamonjullo

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer
Helpful pointers, thanks [cool]


I'd love to see a picture of whatever you came up with for the test.
mikepetro

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blueridgedog

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R model.  Yep.
ryanzurrin

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Reply with quote  #12 
What is that used for? The battery analyzer test on escribe? I don't got to have nothing like that do I?
ChunkyButt200

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanzurrin
What is that used for? The battery analyzer test on escribe? I don't got to have nothing like that do I?
battery analyzer makes your battery meter more accurate. this is more so needed when owning a dna 200. the 75's meter works just fine without using BA. 

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Kresell

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanzurrin
What is that used for? The battery analyzer test on escribe? I don't got to have nothing like that do I?


No all you need is an rda with a loop of wire around 1ohm set the analyzer to 40 watts and let it run. That's all I have been doing for all my mods. I do set a fan near the mod to keep it cool . 
ryanzurrin

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Reply with quote  #15 
Yeah I ran the battery analyzer through a quad coil build and def needed fan too to keep cool. But now I got the proper discharge profile for each set of batteries.
I tried running on a dual at first, but the board temp got to almost 190 before I shut the test down and rebuilt a quad coil for test on my so horny rda. Really loving the dna75, but I do wish I just got the 200 instead just to have that extra power. I got another question, why when I start twisting wires and using multi strain build does it take so many turns and so much wire to even get to a usable ohm rating.? It all seems counter intuitive to me.
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