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LarryLenz

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Reply with quote  #1 
Why doesn't Evolv offer the parts or equipment to us customers so we can set up or mods properly?  It seems that most Mod makers using the Evolv DNA 200 are NOT setting them up correctly, or are not even setting them up at all.  I've read here that you need a shorted device to connect to the top of your mod to check the current loss.  How are WE as Customers to set up our mods if we don't have the tools to do so?  And why didn't Evolv require mod makers to set up and do the proper testing of their mods BEFORE shipping them out to customers?

Just some questions I have.  Thanks
lewisss

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi, i agree with mod makers {especially the big makers } should take the time to set up the mods before they are shipped, case analyser, battery analyser and mod resistance should be set by the manufacturers.

Not so sure about evolve being responsible for supplying tools to test and ensuring mods are tested before shipping.

the tools required are very simple. a bent piece of copper wire pushed into the 510 will give you mod resistance, battery analyser can be done with a loop of Kanthal or a number of high power resistors in parallel.

the case analyser needs no tools
VapingBad

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Reply with quote  #3 
Evolv give the tool away free: Escribe, everything else a mod maker would have or be able to easily make.  They can't force their customers to set up mods as they should, all they can do is ask them to.
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• I am not employed by nor do I represent Evolv Inc.  All opinions are my own, they are just opinion not fact and can be wrong •

Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200/250DNA 75
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LarryLenz

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Reply with quote  #4 
lewisss, 

Could you explain how I can do these tests in a little more detail please?

Quote:
a bent piece of copper wire pushed into the 510 will give you mod resistance, battery analyser can be done with a loop of Kantha


What exactly do you mean by a piece of copper wire pushed into the 510?

Battery analyser - loop of Kanthal...  Put a coil on a RTA and run the Battery Analyser?  I just don't know exactly what you mean.

Thanks in advance for the help [smile] 
scoopy

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Reply with quote  #5 
Make 2 big loops in the rda.......One on each side and sticking out far away from the deck.
Run battery analyser at 40 or 50 watts until yest is done and that will give you your battery curve and correct watt hours



For mod resistance u use a piece of copper jammed in the 510 or put the biggest fattest piece of solid copper wire in the posts of and rda to short it and run atomiser analyser .....u then use 80% of whatever the raw ohms say (multiply the raw ohms by 80% in calculator to get the correct reading and put that into mod resistance box and upload settings)

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LarryLenz

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Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks Scoopy.   I will do it today.  Most appreciated  [smile]
scoopy

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Reply with quote  #7 
No problem buddy.

Just make sure when you do the battery analyser that u use 22 or 24 gauge wire.Cut two 1 foot pieces of wire and put one end of one wire in positive post and put the other end in the negative post.Repeat with the other wire on the opposite side of the deck so it's basically dual loops

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TheKnux

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scoopy
No problem buddy.

Just make sure when you do the battery analyser that u use 22 or 24 gauge wire.Cut two 1 foot pieces of wire and put one end of one wire in positive post and put the other end in the negative post.Repeat with the other wire on the opposite side of the deck so it's basically dual loops


Is there any way you can upload a quick pic of the wire loops?
scoopy

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Reply with quote  #9 
Yes sir!
Her ya go......maybe they are a little longer than 1 foot so maybe 1 1/4 feet each.
If the mod keeps saying ohms to high u might just have to stop the test and trim some off.....also using 22 gauge like I did will help keep the ohms down

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LarryLenz

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Reply with quote  #10 
Scoopy,

For the wire loops, are you using Kanthal or NI200?   I'm assuming Kanthal but I want to be sure.

Thanks [smile]
bingbling

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryLenz
Scoopy,

For the wire loops, are you using Kanthal or NI200?   I'm assuming Kanthal but I want to be sure.

Thanks [smile]


Kanthal
scoopy

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Reply with quote  #12 
Yes Kanthal
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vaperoutlaw

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scoopy



For mod resistance u use a piece of copper jammed in the 510 or put the biggest fattest piece of solid copper wire in the posts of and rda to short it and run atomiser analyser .....u then use 80% of whatever the raw ohms say (multiply the raw ohms by 80% in calculator to get the correct reading and put that into mod resistance box and upload settings)


Can you explain this more? Maybe post a picture.

So you just put a piece of copper in the 510 so it's touching the pin and the threads? Then what do you do, run an analyzer?
scoopy

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Reply with quote  #14 
Yes.... try to find a solid copper nut to fit it or a solid copper rod.

Some have also wadded up some 14 gauge copper wire so it fits tight on the pin and threads.

Another easy way is to put the shortest fattest piece of copper wire that will fit in the posts of an rda (the bigger the post holes the better...... velocity deck works good) Put one end of the copper wire in the positive post and the other in the negative post.

Then open escribe and click atomiser analyser.
Whatever the Raw Ohms say you use 80% of that value and put that in the mod resistance box and upload settings (so if u get 0.010 for raw ohms you would type in 0.008 for your mod resistance)

If you have any questions let me know

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kitila

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Reply with quote  #15 
The thread size is m7x.5 if you can find a copper or bass bolt. Got lucky local hardware store had a few
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