Evolv DNA Forum
Sign up Calendar Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment  
lolwurst

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #1 
Hello everyone,

I have some questions about the wire and solder I'll be using to build my own mod with the DNA 250 chip. When it comes to electronic things, I'm not a total noob. I know how to connect the dual 18650er that I want in my mod and have some basic soldering skills.

1. Question: The Solder itself.
I read on the forum that most people are using normal 60/40 Solder with flux. Is it good to maybe use solder that has a flux core ? What would you prefer:

Sn 60 Pb 39 Cu 1 (0.5mm) with flux core based on kolophonium.
Sn 60 Pb 38 Cu 2 (0.8mm) with "no-clean" flux core.

Which diameter is the best to use ? (0.5mm/0.8mm/1mm)


2. Question: The Wire
The DNA200 Documentation states, that for the output for example the wire gauge should be 14 if silicon insulated. 
I checked the Datasheet of the silicon insulated tinned copper wire that is available at my location and for the 14AWG(1x2,5mm²) wire it says that the max ampere are 32A.

The DNA 250 can produce a max output Ampere of 55A. Wouldnt this burn the cable connected to the 510?

Datasheet of the wire:
http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/1400000-1499999/001499085-da-01-de-SIF_01X0_5_BL_R100.pdf


Thank you very much. I Just want to have everything that I need and be save while building with the dna, thats why I'm asking instead of messing everything up..
retird

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 1,187
Reply with quote  #2 
Will this work for you?  55A rated...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-AWG-10-Feet-3m-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Flexible-Stranded-Copper-Cables-for-RC-/111042906553

It says free shipping.....






__________________
I am not an employee of and do not represent Evolv Inc.  My opinions are just that and are not meant to be fact or even correct.

lolwurst

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks for your reply... I dont think so, I guess the distance is to big...

Maybe I find other wire, but otherwise, maybe my posted wire is okay?
black lace

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 861
Reply with quote  #4 
I prefer 60/40 lead/tin flux cored 5mm onto a fine pointed tip and also use aditional flux because i get a nicer flow and a decent blob, silver seems too thin and washie for me and quickly becomes porouse on overheat.
The silicon coated wire at 14awg, the silicon withstands heat better so doesnt need to be as thickly coated, so the whole thing would be say 2.5mm rather than 3mm plastic coated,,, you only have a very short run from board to 510 connector and only short seconds pulse bursting on fireing so will be ok,,,, i would also recomend the wire that retird has found you, its super flexible fine stranded and a pleasure to work with.. the stuff you have found is poor for this job, you wont see many decent electronic mods with that in them..
the last two mods i built using 1300mah 60c max burst lipos carried 14awg terminal wires that needed cutting down, so i used thoes off cuts to power the 510. (You will find that - that wire is the same as retird recomended)
If your building your own mod and your not a noob as you put it, i would suggest you use a lipo as board is better for and unleash its true potential, why build something that is only going to run on half engin,,,
lolwurst

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #5 
okay cool... As I can see from the Link, these wires are for "RC" things. Maybe I find a shop that sells me the exact same wires for rc cars in my country.

Is the 60/40 Solder cored with the "no-clean" flux ?

Because I have so much 18650er... Currently thinking about a system where I can easily switch between a LiPo Pack and the 18650er Battery holder... Maybe LiPo for home and 18650er for roaming.
black lace

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 861
Reply with quote  #6 
Dont know mate, never heard anything like no clean flux.. but i have got a dirty girl friend and i did go through a faze of thinking that grub screws where made from caterpillars, it was a long time ago and i was small in thoes days..
dwcraig1

Avatar / Picture

Administrator
Registered:
Posts: 1,248
Reply with quote  #7 
From Kesters web site: (copied and pasted)

951 Soldering Flux

Kester 951 is a zero-halogen, non-rosin flux designed for wave soldering, conventional and surface mount circuit board assemblies. The extremely low solids content (2.0%) and nature of the activator system results in practically no residue left on the assembly after soldering. Boards are dry and cosmetically clean as they exit the wave solder machine. There are no residues to interfere with electrical testing. 951 exhibits improved soldering performance to minimize solder bridges (shorts) and excessive solder defects. This flux is suitable for automotive, computer, telecommunications and other applications where reliability considerations are critical. The surface insulation resistance on soldered boards is higher than that provided by typical water-soluble fluxes. 951 contains a corrosion inhibitor such that no corrosion products are formed when bare copper surfaces are exposed to humid environments.

(it looks like water)

__________________
I am not connected with and do not represent Evolv Inc. All opinions are my own. They are just opinions and may not be correct.
black lace

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 861
Reply with quote  #8 
I wont look it up being on mobile but i would think that the soldering an end user / mod builder is concerned with is non critical, (tinned wires to pre tinned tabs) not componant legs to copper foil circuit boards.
No disrespect to anyone in a pannic over soldering to the board but a competant person would get by with a copper clout nail sticking out of a wooden clothes peg, most of us have blow lamps left over or a cooker hob for heating and tuning kanthal wire and coils.
If someones capable of assembling a mod but dont know how to solder i would guess it would take them 15 minuts to learn.. and have a little practice first...
(You may find using liquid flux will capulate up fine stranded wire when tinning up) perhaps better used as a wipe on a damp cotton bud or deliverd through a flux pen..
personaly i think the most difficult thing about these boards is slotting in the screan tab, and that too is dead easy..
when i was building the dna40's i never even knew the locking bar could be pre lifted, i would just push the tab in and the bar flip up to indicate tab located and then lock it down..
dl12345

Member
Registered:
Posts: 47
Reply with quote  #9 
I find that solder paste is much easier to use than solder wire when soldering to a surface mount tab. It also gives a neater solder
lolwurst

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dl12345
I find that solder paste is much easier to use than solder wire when soldering to a surface mount tab. It also gives a neater solder


Sounds interesting, do I need a special solder iron for the paste? 
dl12345

Member
Registered:
Posts: 47
Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolwurst


Sounds interesting, do I need a special solder iron for the paste? 


If you're soldering a complex surface mount chip then you might need a hot air rework station, but just to solder the wire to the tab an iron will do.

I'm sure there are others here who are much more experienced at soldering than I am and can probably give better tips, but what i do is to tin the wire first then "paint" the tab with some liquid flux, apply a bit of solder paste to the tab, place the wire against the tab and paste, put a blob of solder onto the tip of the iron and then touch the molten solder to the wire/tab/paste.  That generally gives me a nice clean solder that sticks to the tab first time.
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.