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BillW50

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
Still not sure what you mean, maybe the low temp?
Oh, it's a Serpent


The temp is set at 470ºF, the coil is Ni200 0.107 ohm and it is throwing 20 watts at it and it is only hitting 327ish... The same build in another VT133 does this.

2016-05-29_115347.png

scooby

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Reply with quote  #17 
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Originally Posted by BillW50
@scooby: It is worth a shot and it should work, but if there is a problem you will find out. It is definitely worth a shot.


Thanks for that. All in the planning stage atm and plans seem to evolve as I gather the hardware, good to know it's probably ok.
dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #18 
Same build....is it the same atty...not just same model atty?
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BillW50

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Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwcraig1
Same build....is it the same atty...not just same model atty?


Yes, same atty and build. On the one not hitting temperature, the coil reads a higher resistance. But those Crown RBAs have been known of not making the greatest connection sometimes.
dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #20 
I always look at the low temp as a sign that the wick is saturated well and could take more power. This is providing the cold and live ohms show correctly. 
If mine hit the temp set I make whatever changes to keep it below that temp. Generally see how many watts it can take before hitting temp and back it off some. 430 F is my usual setting.

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BillW50

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Reply with quote  #21 
Oh yes, you vape by wattage dominance. While I vape by temperature dominance. And if I vape MTL with something like a Subtank or Crown, 20 watts is twice as much wattage you really need. But it also works like preheat being twice as high. Although moving to an RDA like a Mad Hatter v2, you need at least 25 watts to hit temperature so setting it to 50 watts works the same way.
BillW50

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Reply with quote  #22 
Now look at the Hotcig... the problem cleared up.

Hotcig DX200_002.png 

ChunkyButt200

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Reply with quote  #23 
the output gnd and battery gnd are interconnected. so it shouldn't make a difference which pad the battery neg is soldered to. the battery neg is not being soldered to the box. what hotcig did and what this person is trying to do are two different things. 510 gnd stability is not in question, an alternative to where to solder the batt neg is. he wants to ADD the batt neg to his 510 gnd wire going to the board.
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• I am not employed by nor do I represent Evolv Inc.  All opinions are my own, they are just opinion not fact and can be wrong •
Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200 • DNA 75  Common problems
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dwcraig1

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Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChunkyButt200
the output gnd and battery gnd are interconnected. so it shouldn't make a difference which pad the battery neg is soldered to. the battery neg is not being soldered to the box. what hotcig did and what this person is trying to do are two different things. 510 gnd stability is not in question, an alternative to where to solder the batt neg is.
 
You are correct, the Hotcig is wired like the ERM. The poster wants to run the output ground to the 510's body as well as the batteries negative to the 510's body. At least that's what I got fromit after I read it a few times.

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BillW50

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Reply with quote  #25 
And along the same lines of thought, the battery taps for the balance connection shouldn't really matter if one wire is a few CM longer or shorter than another. But Evolv recommends they all be exactly the same length. Pretty hard to do with 18650s in series in a sled.

Along the same logic as Evolv, I think the ground and the positive should also be the same length for the very same reasons. Sure you don't have to, but doing so should be less problematic. After all, any measurable resistance is going to have a measurable effect at 11.1v at 23A.

Newton's Third Law of Motion
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #26 
Bill, when I build a mod I am a firm believer that "bigger is better".  I always use the maximum wire sizes from the spec sheet, even though I rarely, if ever, go over 50 watts even with a DNA200.  My theory being that minimizing loss, and lowering impedance at the same time, can't hurt anything and may help.  We're dealing with very low resistances at firly high power/current and every little bit shaved can make a significant difference, at both the supply and output sides.  Just my semi-educmacated, (im)practical experiences anyway.  I just wish I had a meter that resolved down to .0001, or lower, ohms so I could see the fruits of my efforts.
BillW50

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Reply with quote  #27 
You mean like this one?

micro-ohm meter 001.jpg 

They only cost like 65 bucks on eBay (shipped from China). I had one, but it disappeared. Maybe someone decided they needed it more than I did. Anyway getting down to 10 micro-ohms things really does get hairy.

awsum140

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Reply with quote  #28 
Yeah, then you need to worry about the quality of the connections as well.  Maybe I'll look on Fleabay.  Back in "ancient times" I used to have access to stuff like that and it was all traceable to NBS and sure didn't come from China.
BillW50

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Reply with quote  #29 
Yeah ain't that the truth! [cool]
scooby

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChunkyButt200
the output gnd and battery gnd are interconnected. so it shouldn't make a difference which pad the battery neg is soldered to. the battery neg is not being soldered to the box. what hotcig did and what this person is trying to do are two different things. 510 gnd stability is not in question, an alternative to where to solder the batt neg is. he wants to ADD the batt neg to his 510 gnd wire going to the board.


That's right. Here's a pic of what I'm planing. There's no reliance on the enclosure although the 2 screws do clamp the retaining/solder ring to secure the connector to it. (sled is just to indicate what I plan, not the one I'm using)

Normally the wire path would be down to the bottom of the enclosure to the B- pad, this way is a much shorter path.

It's been interesting reading this thread, not that I totally understand it all, thanks.



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