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sdmf74

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Reply with quote  #1 
I didn't know where to post to suggest future changes to the firmware but I cannot believe that this wasn't changed long ago.

I like to vape primarily temp control and stainless steel coils and the majority of stainless steel coils from eleaf and aspire require a higher temp setting than 600f. I find myself vaping at 600f and getting a weak vape, if I press the up button once to turn off tc I get a much more satisaying vape but I prefer tc.

It's the same issue with all of my DNA devices
Reuleaux, therion dna75, therion dna 166, and even a custom built DNA200 with a max amps lipo.

Is there a way to increase the temp above 600f (say to 650 or more) for ONLY stainless steel materials in a future version of the software?

I have tried everything I can think of to fix the issue so if anyone has any suggestions please do?

I would be interested In hearing what brandon or anyone at evolv has to say about it, I'm sure there are reasons for not going above 600f but honestly SS materials need it.

I'm not real good with setting the tcr parameters and I'm guessing that could be one work around the issue but for those of us that don't fully understand tcr I'm hoping for an update.
bgarren

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Not really for one profile. Try a greater preheat punch. They would have to recalibrate the entire chip to go above or below the temp thresholds in place. The issue is the temperature is at a threshold most materials are safest and most efficient at. Remember at the start 450 degrees was a setting to avoid dry hits at the burning point of cotton. Try a different wire for a warmer vape, such as sweet spot ti, it will probably be the warmest with one of the lowest k values or heat absorption to size ratio
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VapingBad

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Reply with quote  #3 
It could be several things, the most likley being: locking the cold res too low, not enough contact area between the coil and the wick (add more wraps), material not matching the TCR or poor contacts.  Low preheat or low power are less likley as they are the first things most people would try.  I use 316L from 2 different sources (StealthVape & Zipipf) mostly tipple twisted 0.2 mm or  0.4 mm and never need to go above 400 F, I use the Evolv SS316 material profile, ph power about 2-3 times vape power and ph punch maxed.
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Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200/250DNA 75
Common problems
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #4 
I would speculate that there are some settings that need to be tweaked or there are problems with the atomizers.  The one that pops into mind, first, is mod resistance.  At 600 degrees you should be getting a disgusting, burnt, taste loaded with things you really don't want to be inhaling.  In fact, even at about 500 degrees the taste should be getting right on the edge of being bad. In terms of safety, not producing harmful by-products, you really want to stay below 470F.

I have an old Big Fogger that has problems with varying resistance.  It can vape well one minute and be weak to non-existent and go into temperature protection the next minute.  This is a result of a poor connection at the center pin which is producing variations in resistance seen by the chip.  The variation is only a hundredth of an ohm or so, but that is more than enough to effect performance dramatically.

Like VB, I use 316L, mine is from Temco, with the SS profile from Evolv (stock profile) and the highest I am running is 400F.  Those are single wire, 26 gauge, 6 wrap coils and are in both single and dual coil RTAs.

Another thing to check is the center pins on both the atomizer(s) and mods to make certain they are clean and the spring on the center pin of the mod is working properly.
Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #5 

I'm with @Saint_VB and @awsum. Pick one of your mods with this issue and post a couple full Printscreens (Mod tab, Material tab with wire type highlighted, profile you use) and finally Device Monitor while firing. Power, power set, temp, temp set, cold ohms, live ohms ticked.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bgarren
Not really for one profile. Try a greater preheat punch. They would have to recalibrate the entire chip to go above or below the temp thresholds in place. The issue is the temperature is at a threshold most materials are safest and most efficient at. Remember at the start 450 degrees was a setting to avoid dry hits at the burning point of cotton. Try a different wire for a warmer vape, such as sweet spot ti, it will probably be the warmest with one of the lowest k values or heat absorption to size ratio


Guy, seriously? Pick any temperature, and your vape should have the same warmth WITH ANY WIRE TYPE. The OP is already here '600f and getting a weak vape' that's the issue.

 


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Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by awsum140
.... In terms of safety, not producing harmful by-products, you really want to stay below 470F.


Complete Super solid post, but didn't wanna go there ^^^^^, seeing as how we're Evolv-ing. [biggrin]

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awsum140

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Reply with quote  #7 
I didn't want to go there, either, but 600F is REALLY kind of high.
VapingBad

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Reply with quote  #8 
True, but I don't think it is getting anywhere 600 F in this case, just one or more of the above issues causing it to be a weak vape.
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Latest versions of EScribe: DNA 200/250DNA 75
Common problems
awsum140

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Reply with quote  #9 
You're probably right, VB.  If it was getting that hot it couldn't actually be vaped.
sdmf74

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Reply with quote  #10 
Instead of quoting multiple comments I will just share some replies. First a Preheat punch only makes things worse, if I use a preheat I just hit Temp protect sooner resulting in a colder vape, need more headroom not less.

Different wires are great, I own them all but the point of this thread is to get a satisfying vape from 316,316L. Titanium tastes funny to me and I dont like it, but tempered N1200 is great. I realize SS wire has a smaller range for the device to recognize TC but if its possible with homemade SS coils it really should be possible with manufactured coils such as the eleaf and aspire coils I mentioned above, I am referring to the aspire coils and all of the eleaf SS coils including the new notch coils (not sure about the 1.8ohm ones though never used them).

I dont seem to have this problem with my Lightening Vapes 36ss/24ss clapton or my 36ss/24k clapton wires using the tcr's on their website or even the evolv 316l tcr with the LV wire.

I want to respond to this reply: "I would speculate that there are some settings that need to be tweaked or there are problems with the atomizers.  The one that pops into mind, first, is mod resistance.  At 600 degrees you should be getting a disgusting, burnt, taste loaded with things you really don't want to be inhaling.  In fact, even at about 500 degrees the taste should be getting right on the edge of being bad. In terms of safety, not producing harmful by-products, you really want to stay below 470F."
          I know how to set mod resisitance, I have a solid copper threaded plug thats perfectly machined and have set M.R. on all my DNA devices. Most are around .004 but I have tried .006 and of course 0.00. mod resistance doesnt help with the issue. Trust me there is nothing unsafe about these coils at 600F, it is a VERY weak
vape barely producing any vapor no matter what tank I use. Center pins are fine as I said its not the mod, I have tried 4 different DNA Devices and 3 different boards 75,200,250. I also clean my threads with q tip and 91% alcohol.

Thanks for all your replies!  Does anyone actually use the coils I am referring to? remember I am not talking about building with prefab wire, I do that mostly & it works fine but some of my tanks require premade coils (obviously) and thats the problem here.

I think posting screenshots of device monitor should help for those that can decode it better than I. Let me eat my spicy chicken strips from hardees and I will get them posted as requested, thanks again
giz_60

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Reply with quote  #11 
If you are getting a good vape from SS coils you build, but not from ones that are per-built (manufactured), then it was seem that your issue is with the 'manufactured' coils....not the DNA boards...otherwise, it would be an issue despite what SS coils were being used...QC?...just a thought

Edit: In your original post, you did mention that you are using the eleaf & aspire coils..however, you neglected to mention that your home builds were working fine...lack of info lead everyone to believe that it was a universal problem across your devices with SS material...
Wayneo

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Reply with quote  #12 
@sdmf74 YES, I use Aspire Triton and Cleito SS .4 premade coils succesfully in temp mode, the warmth I get from them matches my use of Ti coils at the same temp. Also closely matches when I 'roll my own' coils with 316L or 430.

Is this ".... evolv 316l tcr with the LV wire" the material profile you're using for them?

@giz That 'Aspire' in post 1 is actually what caught my eye first. Of all my posts, I only ever posted 1 Topic, which was about these coils. Without making assumptions I'm leaning towards that 29 hour problem

Edit: spelling

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giz_60

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayneo
Without making assumptions I'm leaning towards that 29 hour problem


But, if it was the 20 hour syndrome, then wouldn't all SS coils be affected? I had a similar issue, at one time, but with a different brand atty. The pre-made coils would work fine, but when using the RBA deck, TC would be all wonky. Put the deck in a different base, & a wonderful vape. Turned out there was some machining issues with the base of that particular atty & the 510 pin in the base wasn't making good contact with the deck but continuity with the OEM coils was good...that one drove me bonkers for a spell...[crazy]


awsum140

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Reply with quote  #14 
Again, I'll go back to the contact problems.  You've supplied more information and you're having problems with replaceable coils, not hand built coils.  The major difference being the center pin connection quality.
sdmf74

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Reply with quote  #15 
I have only used the cleito SS coils once and I dont remember having any issues with them. Not sure what you mean by the "29 hour problem".
As I said Its the same thing on different tanks so no deck or center pin problem. I too had a problem once with a wonky subtank base but thats not the problem here. 
I may just have to find different coils, normally eleaf coils are great (non ss) and they dont cost $20 a pack

Sorry for the delay, here is the ss's of a puff on Lemo 3 (new) w/ eleaf notch coil
general tab, materials tab, mod tab
device monitor puff on Lemo 3 (new) w eleaf notch coil.PNG 
general tab.PNG  material tab.PNG  mod tab.PNG 


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